What is Bushcraft and how does it differ to Survival?

Survival in a Survival Situation is a Short Term Strategy, Bushcraft is a Way of Life, its Forever.

Bushcraft is about Surviving and Sur-Thriving in a Wilderness Environment through the acquisition of ancient skills and knowledge.

Bushcraft challenges us to acquire the knowledge and skills of our Forefathers and by doing so, we gain a greater understanding of our natural environment and its interrelationships and dependencies. With this comes a Responsibility and Duty to become the Custodians of this Knowledge as well as Gaurdians of the Wilderness areas.


Sunday 8 January 2012

Bushcraft Cutting Tools


An important part of Bushcraft is having a reliable and sharp cutting tool.

The Machette

American and European Bushcrafters have a leaning towards an axe as the main chopping tool. This is primarily due to the nature of their Ecological Territories where they enjoy large forested areas with numerous tall and thick trees. In Africa, this is not always the case and most of our indigenous trees are relatively small with thinner branches. The main functions of the axe would be the use in the preparation of shelter materials and fire wood. Like wise in Africa, the Machette's primary purpose is the same with an added function of cutting a path through jungle growth or thick bush and grass.

Traditional Machettes have a long straight blade with a slight curve towards the tip and is considered the all pupose tool of many native peoples. The Khukri style Machette also offers an all pupose blade for Africa. Although shorter in length than a traditional machette, its continuous curved blade allows for differing sharpness and different work areas.

Benefits of the Khukri:

  • The curve closest to the hilt is kept very sharp and is used for fine work and as a "drawing" blade for shaping or straightening wood and debarking branches.
  • The full belly curve is the chopping edge and the curve allows the blade to "grab" the wood making more of a cut for less effort.
  • In clearing out undergrowth, the shape of the blade in relation to the wrist allows for a more natural cutting action and wrist movement as opposed to a full arm swing
  • The tip of the blade is again, very sharp and can be used for stabbing, prying and skinning.
Some modifications can be made to the blade and these will be detailed in a separate post.

The Folding Saw

The folding saw is a lightweight and compact general wood cutting tool that is used in shelter construction and animal preparation as it will cut through bone as well. Small to medium sized branches and trees can be processed with this with the added advantage of giving more precision in work such as nothing out of wood when constructing other tools or shelters or securing lines to trees and so on. Deeper cuts with less effort can be made. This is an essential tool to carry.

The Bush Knife

This is the primary tool of Bushcraft and if you had to choose just one blade it would probably be this although the Khukri performs the functions and more of a Bush Knife. Small, compact and very sharp and always at hand. Some pointers for choosing a Bush Knife:

  • Buy the best you can afford. Very good blades can be had for a modest sum. The one pictured has given a good many years of service in the field, in hunting, game preparation, wood battoning and only cost ZAR 100.00 (@ $9.00 US)
  • Make sure that the tang is "full". In other words, the blade and the section that the handle is attached to, are all one piece through to the pommel (the end of the handle). Some Bushcraft and Survival knives have a hollow handle where you can store items. This means that the tang can not go all the way through to the hilt and there is always a risk of the handle and blade separating ways at some point. Rather safe than sorry
  • The back of the blade should have a wide section relative to the sharp edge so that it can be hit with a log in battoning (splitting wood)
  • Blades will be in stainless or carbon steel. Most carbon steel blades have a coating on to prevent rust as it will rust compared to the stainless steel blades. In my opinion, carbon steel blades can be sharpened easier and quicker in the field than a stainless steel one. Carbon blades need to be oiled while stored in their sheaths and a bit of cooking oil can be used for this. Machine oil can also be used but may transfer to ffod being prepared.
  • Handles come in a variety of materials from man made plastics and rubber to natural materials like wood. My preference is for wood which has a good feel, wont blister a hand as easily as some synthetics and could be replaced in the field if needed
  • Finger guards should be present, a small indentation that will accomodate your forefinger should be sufficient to prevent your hand from slipping onto the blade while working, especially in cleaning animals
  • Sheaths must have a solid belt loop or loops to attach to the belt for carrying. Sheaths come in three main materials namely leather (formed or not), cordura (synthetic canvas) or a materila called Kydex which is heat shaped over the knife itself forming a tight fit for the knife in a similar fashion as that of formed leather. The other important consideration is the knife retainer. Some sheaths have a separate strap for this while form fitted leather and Kydex do not, relying on a friction fit to keep the knife in the sheath. If your chosen knife is of this type, check that it is retained sufficiently by turning it up side down and giving it a good shake. If it falls out, move on
Multi-Tool & Folders/Pen Knives

A multi-tool type knife is an indispensible little work horse and should be kept on the person in a pocket attached to a lanyard or in a backpack. Selection will be based on price and functions offered and a small 2 blade pen knife will suffice. The one pictured above is the Swiss Champ and comes with a belt pouch and it is probably my most used tool around camp, from carving small tools and implements, cordage, tin opening, cleaning and maintaining firearms, opening fruit and seed pods and even sharpening other blades.

In Closing

Carrying the above will give you flexibility in functionality while offering some form of redundancy should a blade be damaged or lost. The Khukri is available in most countries and is from Cold Steel. The saw can be obtained from gardening shops (go for a folder as it is compact and protects the blade when not in use). Carbon steel blades can be sharpened with the usual sharpening implements but a fine file can also be used as can rocks and concrete. Buy the best you can afford and preferably from a reputable and established manufacturer. Go for function over form, there are many "cheap" but very good looking knives available and these probably wont stand up to rigorous use in the field

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